Knives & shopping · Tsukiji outer market 場外市場 · verified 2 August 2026
The tuna auction left in 2018; the blades did not. Seven knife shops still trade in the outer-market lanes, and the hard parts are everything the shop cannot do for you: which house opens which day, the noon sharpening cut-offs, the tax-free system that changes completely on 1 November 2026, and an airport sequence that must happen in exactly one order. This page is the current mechanics, shop by shop, read from each shop's own site.
Two myths do most of the damage on this topic, so they go first:
Wrong shop. That is Kyoto's Aritsugu, in Nishiki Market — a separate company. Tsukiji Aritsugu's own company page says: founded 1918 in Nihonbashi, moved to Tsukiji 1923, incorporated 1952. Its banner claim of “four hundred years of tradition” is a lineage claim to the swordsmith Fujiwara Aritsugu, not a founding date. English guides keep pasting the Kyoto history under the Tokyo heading.
They stayed. Only the wholesale inner market moved. Aritsugu, Masamoto and Masahisa kept their Tsukiji shops and added (or relocated an in-market branch to) Toyosu, on earlier hours — Masahisa's Toyosu counter shuts at noon. The correct sentence is “they stayed, and they also opened at Toyosu”.
The board below is read from each shop's own site (the market council's directory disagrees with three of them — footnotes). All seven cluster in three pockets of the 4-chome lanes; walking the lot is under ten minutes.
| Shop | 2018 | Hours (own site) | Closed | The one-line truth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Azuma Minamotono Masahisa 東源正久 | stayed | 5:30–15:00† | Calendar-driven, no fixed day | Where the tuna knife was invented — blades over 135 cm; earliest opener; also at Toyosu (to 12:00) |
| Tsukiji Aritsugu 築地有次 | stayed | 6:00–15:00† | Sun, holidays, some Wed | 1918, not 1560; free hand engraving; same-day sharpening before noon; Toyosu branch too |
| Tsukiji Masamoto 築地正本 | stayed | 6:00–15:00 | Sun, holidays, market days | Tsukiji since 1931; stayed AND its in-market branch moved to Toyosu; free engraving + free final edge |
| Sugimoto Hamono 杉本刃物 | stayed | 7:00–16:00† | Sun, holidays + market days | The house with a full English site, FAQ and repair terms — and a published UK shipping ban |
| Nenohi 築地子の日 | stayed | 8:15–15:30 | None (exc. New Year) | The Sunday answer — no fixed closing day; top of the price ladder, ¥44,000–¥181,500 |
| Tojiro Knife Gallery 藤次郎 | new | 8:00–15:00 | Wed and Sun, Obon | Opened 15 December 2025 — a Niigata maker's new shop, ~16.5 m², 200+ knives, built for first-timers |
| Tsukiji Hitachiya つきじ常陸屋 | stayed | 8:00–13:00† | Opens Sun/hol from 10:00 | Kitchenware without the edge — steamers, tubs, hand-hammered woks; the other Sunday option |
† The official pages disagree with each other, which is why we quote the shops. The council's Japanese page for Aritsugu says 6:00–15:00 closed on market days only; its English page says 5:30–15:00 closed Sundays — each half-right against the shop's own site. Sugimoto's own two sites split too: the Japanese page defers closing days to the market calendar, the English page hard-codes Wednesdays. Hitachiya's close is 13:00 on the council's Japanese page and 15:00 on its English one. Masahisa's own site says 15:00 against the council's 15:30, and it is the only one publishing a live monthly closing calendar — trust that. For any specific date, check the shop's own monthly notice: Sugimoto's August 2026 notice adds a 14–16 August Obon closure that appears on no market calendar.
One footnote for completists: there is a second Aritsugu — Aritsugu Hocho-ten, a small corner shop at 4-9-16 selling Sakai-made knives, listed on the council's shopping site but absent from its main directory, with no website of its own. Its current trading status is unverified; phone before making a trip of it. And if you find every shop shuttered (a Sunday, a holiday Wednesday), the fallbacks are Nenohi, Hitachiya — or Kappabashi in Asakusa, which keeps ordinary retail hours. Several market walks include the knife lanes →
Buying takes twenty minutes. The services around buying run on hard cut-offs, and they are the schedule-sensitive part of the whole errand:
Engraving is the service worth planning around: free at Masamoto, Aritsugu and Sugimoto, struck by hand — Sugimoto takes up to 5 characters in kanji or kana by chisel, or 10 in capital letters by stamp; Masamoto will even do it free if you come back later. The one paid case is laser engraving on a Western blade body at Aritsugu, from ¥500. Masamoto also puts the honbazuke final hand edge on free at purchase — its FAQ notes mail-order knives often ship without one. No shop publishes an engraving wait time, so allow for it being done while you shop. And be certain first: all three refuse returns or cancellation once a knife is engraved.
The realistic half-morning: shops at 09:00, drop a knife for sharpening by 11:00, eat in the food lanes, collect at 13:00, done. Sundays invert everything — only Nenohi and Hitachiya open, so the whole day's knife trade lands on two counters.
Carbon vs stainless, from a Tsukiji maker rather than a forum. Sugimoto's own English column (September 2024) dismantles the usual line: “It is often said that carbon steel makes knives sharper, while stainless steel does not… this is not entirely true… High-quality stainless steel knives are just as good as carbon steel knives. In fact, a stainless steel knife might even have a better edge… Stainless steel knives also have a significant advantage: they resist rust and are easier to maintain.” Carbon rusts if it stays wet for minutes — Masamoto's care note says hand-wash and dry immediately, no dishwasher, no frozen food, no bones. If you will not wipe a blade dry within a minute of use, stainless is the honest buy, and the shops themselves say so.
The price ladder, with one detail no guide prints: the shops do not display prices on the same tax basis. All figures read from the shops' own sites, 2 August 2026:
| Shop | Range (typical) | Shelf price shown | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tojiro Gallery | ¥6,600 (BASIC santoku) – ¥22,000 (Damascus); sets ¥11,000–¥24,000 | Tax included | First good knife; stainless-heavy; free laser engraving for buyers |
| Tsukiji Masamoto | ¥16,500 (deba) – ¥28,600; santoku ¥23,100 | Tax included | The fitted hand-forged knife; left-handed range listed separately |
| Sugimoto | from ~¥15,000 in hand (gyuto); Chinese cleavers ¥39,091–¥79,000 before tax | Tax excluded — add 10% | Chinese cleavers; buyers who want everything explained in English |
| Tsukiji Aritsugu | ¥22,000–¥25,000 (A-series rust-resistant) | Tax excluded | The compromise steel — carbon sharpness, rust resistance; nukigata vegetable stamps as the flat-packing gift |
| Nenohi | ¥44,000 (Sho petty) – ¥181,500 (honyaki yanagiba) | Tax included | The top end — and open seven days |
Specialities worth crossing the lanes for: Masahisa is, by the council's own description, the shop where the maguro-bocho tuna knife was invented — it developed the blade over 135 cm long, and full-size examples hang in the shop. Aritsugu's wall of nukigata — stamped vegetable cutters in zodiac and blossom shapes — costs a fraction of a knife and packs flat.
Two manners that matter here more than anywhere: don't haggle — the market's official code says plainly that goods are at wholesale prices and price negotiation is not a Tsukiji custom; on a ¥55,000 hand-forged blade it reads as an insult. And don't touch — blades sit on open display, edge-out; ask, and staff will hand you the knife. What you can ask for — free engraving, the final edge, sharpening advice — is worth more than the discount you won't get. Payment: the council publishes card acceptance for Sugimoto, Nenohi, Masahisa and Hitachiya; Aritsugu, Masamoto and Tojiro publish nothing, so carry cash for those three and confirm before the engraving starts.
A knife is “general goods” under Japan's tax-free system — no sealed bag, no consumables cap, and you may use it in Japan. That much is stable. Everything else about the system splits into two regimes, and a 2026 trip can straddle them.
From 1 November 2026, Japan stops taking the tax off at the till. The National Tax Agency's own leaflet: shops will sell “at a price that includes consumption tax”, you obtain customs confirmation at departure within 90 days of the purchase date, and the shop or its agent refunds the tax afterwards — bank transfer, card refund, app, or cash at the airport, at the shop's choice; the law deliberately doesn't prescribe it. There is no transition period, and the trigger is the sale date, not your departure date: buy on 31 October and the old instant exemption still applies even if you fly in December. Abolished with the switch: the sealed-bag rule, the ¥500,000 consumables cap, the general-goods/consumables split. If you are in Tokyo in late October 2026, buying before 1 November is measurably simpler.
It stays. The Japan Tourism Agency's own comparison table marks the ¥5,000-plus threshold “no change”. You still need ¥5,000 tax-excluded in one shop in one day, under both regimes.
Dead since March 2025. Japan Customs abolished the 別送 separate-dispatch route on 31 March 2025 — tax-free goods now leave in your own baggage. A shop shipping a knife directly overseas is a different thing and still exists (Aritsugu, Masamoto and Sugimoto all do it) — but a shipped knife is simply a normal taxed purchase.
Which knife shops are tax-free (until the switch, at the till): the council flags Sugimoto, Nenohi, Masahisa and Hitachiya; Tojiro's opening announcement states tax-free handling. Aritsugu works through the market's shared Smart Refund counter at Plat Tsukiji (4-16-2): buy at the member shop, then take passport, receipts and the goods to the counter the same day, between 10:00 and 15:00 — the refund comes in cash, less a handling fee. Buy at 07:00 and you must come back after 10:00. Masamoto publishes no tax-free status at all — ask before you buy; at these shops' price levels the tax is a ¥2,000–¥5,000 difference. Under the current rules the minimum is ¥5,000 tax-excluded per shop per day, passport in hand, purchase record filed electronically — nothing is stapled into your passport, and hasn't been since 2020.
Two rules collide at the airport, and the collision is the single most important logistical fact on this page.
So the sequence, spelled out: arrive early → go to the customs counter or tax-free kiosk first, with the knife still in your hand luggage or accessible in your case → get the confirmation → then queue for the airline counter and check the bag → then security. Ask at the airport information desk where the tax-free customs point is the moment you arrive; at Narita, Haneda, Kansai, Chubu, Fukuoka, New Chitose and Naha part of the procedure can be pre-done in Visit Japan Web. Japan Customs' own planning documents expect queues once every refund claimant must pass through customs — budget the time.
Before the airport, the hotel leg: Japanese law bans carrying a blade over 6 cm in public without justifiable reason (up to 2 years or ¥300,000), and the Tokyo police name your exact case as the worked example of a justifiable reason — buying a blade at a shop and taking it home. Keep it boxed as the shop packed it, keep the receipt, go straight back. The police examples say “home”, not “hotel”, and no English guidance exists — so don't stretch it with detours.
If you'd rather not carry it at all: the shops ship. Masamoto sends overseas by EMS in about a week; Sugimoto ships worldwide from ¥2,600–¥5,200 by zone — with two published destination warnings: it cannot ship to the United Kingdom at all (UK bladed-item import rules; orders placed anyway are cancelled), and its customs notice warns US buyers that shipments “may be subject to significantly higher customs duties than in the past”, payable by you. A UK visitor's only route home is the checked bag.
The other half of a Tsukiji shopping bag is the kanbutsu trade — katsuobushi, kombu, nori, tea, pickles. It is a morning trade (several houses shut by noon), it is wholesale-minded, and it is where the worst travel-facts circulate. One thing first: the Japanese tax-free seal has no biosecurity meaning anywhere. Border officers open sealed bags routinely; admissibility turns on what the product is, not what wrapped it.
False in the present tense — and it never applied to your luggage. On 10 July 2015 the EU wrote katsuobushi into its regulation by name with its own higher smoke-compound limits, and today's rules still list “Katsuobushi (dried bonito)” with dedicated thresholds. Those limits bind food placed on the market — commercial sellers. There is no PAH test at any EU border for passengers, and there never was. Bring the flakes.
Pickles are the real Australia trap. Raw rice into Australia is a clean prohibition and people obey it. Tsukemono is conditionally allowed in a way the classic format fails: it must be shelf-stable for six months in an approved sealed container — metal can, twist-off jar, retort pouch. The chilled vacuum pouch marked 要冷蔵 fails; a shelf-stable glass jar of umeboshi generally passes. Also read dashi-pack labels: pork or beef extract trips the absolute EU, GB and Australian meat bans.
Buying katsuobushi without embarrassment: the 6-chome bonito wholesalers are professionals' shops, and it shows. Fushitaka — 95 per cent trade customers, a shop of about 23 m² — states on its own site that it will not weigh out less than 500 g, and that a hurried professional gets served before you, mid-transaction. Asking for 100 g there isn't rude, but be ready for the no. The tourist-sized counter is Obayashi Shoten (6-26-8, 4:00–14:00), which sells everything by weight from 50 g — the smallest documented minimum in the category. The honest souvenir remains the sealed 70 g bag of hana-kezuri flakes at around ¥900: it fits in luggage, doesn't oxidise while sealed, and actually gets used, unlike the beautiful whole block that needs a shaving box and, by the seller's own admission, about a month of practice.
Fushitaka also runs the category's best experience: a free katsuobushi-shaving class, one group of up to two people at 13:00 on trading days — booked by telephone only (03-3541-0918, call 6:30–14:00; email is expressly not accepted). Its suspension notices — 1 December–5 January and 1 August–10 September — live in the page's hidden code and don't reliably show on screen, so the website cannot tell you whether the class is running. Phone. The class page and line are Japanese-only. Timing for the whole dried-goods errand mirrors the knives: weekday 09:00–11:00, because by 13:00 a third of these shops are shuttered — details on the calendar page.
No — every one is in the outer market, which never moved. Aritsugu, Masamoto and Masahisa also run second branches inside Toyosu Market on earlier hours, and Tojiro's gallery opened new in Tsukiji in December 2025 — the knife trade here is growing, not winding down.
That's Kyoto's Aritsugu — a separate company in Nishiki Market. Tsukiji Aritsugu's own pages give 1918 (Nihonbashi), 1923 (Tsukiji), 1952 (incorporation). The 1560 line under a Tsukiji heading is the most-syndicated error on this topic.
Nenohi — no fixed closing day, 8:15–15:30 — and Hitachiya from 10:00. The other four knife houses close Sundays, and most Wednesdays too; check the calendars before you set out.
¥6,600 buys a genuinely good stainless santoku at Tojiro; ¥13,000–¥29,000 covers the professional and old-house middle; Nenohi runs ¥44,000–¥181,500. Watch the tax basis: Sugimoto and Aritsugu shelf prices exclude the 10%, Tojiro, Masamoto and Nenohi include it.
Sharpening: Aritsugu before 12:00 (max two knives, ~1 hour), Sugimoto drop-offs 07:00–14:00. Engraving: free at Masamoto, Aritsugu and Sugimoto — and irreversible; no returns once a knife carries your name.
Tax-free stops being instant. You pay full price, get customs confirmation at departure within 90 days of purchase, and are refunded afterwards. No transition; sale date decides which regime you're under; the ¥5,000 minimum stays. Buying on or before 31 October keeps the old at-the-till exemption.
Checking the bag first. The knife must fly checked, but customs must see your tax-free goods before the airline has the bag. Customs point → confirmation → check-in → security, in that order — full sequence in chapter 06.
Yes in practice: the Tokyo police cite “bought a blade at a shop, taking it home” as the model justifiable reason under the 6 cm carry law. Keep it boxed, keep the receipt, go straight back — no detours, no unwrapping.
Katsuobushi travels well and the EU “ban” is a dead myth — the regulation names katsuobushi with its own limits and binds sellers, not suitcases. Pickles are the trap: Australia demands six-month shelf-stability in approved sealed containers, which the chilled vacuum pouch fails. A shelf-stable jar of umeboshi generally passes.