Knives & shopping · Tsukiji outer market 場外市場 · verified 2 August 2026
The tuna auction left in 2018; the blades did not. Seven knife shops still trade in the outer-market lanes, and the hard parts are everything the shop cannot do for you: which house opens which day, the noon sharpening cut-offs, the tax refund that replaced at-the-till tax-free sales on 1 November 2026, and an airport sequence that must happen in exactly one order. This page is the current mechanics, shop by shop, read from each shop's own site.
Two myths do most of the damage on this topic, so they go first:
Wrong shop. That is Kyoto's Aritsugu, in Nishiki Market — a separate company. Tsukiji Aritsugu's own company page says: founded 1918 in Nihonbashi, moved to Tsukiji 1923, incorporated 1952. Its banner claim of “four hundred years of tradition” is a lineage claim to the swordsmith Fujiwara Aritsugu, not a founding date. English guides keep pasting the Kyoto history under the Tokyo heading.
They stayed. Only the wholesale inner market moved. Aritsugu, Masamoto and Masahisa kept their Tsukiji shops and added (or relocated an in-market branch to) Toyosu, on earlier hours — Masahisa's Toyosu counter shuts at noon. The correct sentence is “they stayed, and they also opened at Toyosu”.
The board below is read from each shop's own site (the market council's directory disagrees with three of them — footnotes). All seven cluster in three pockets of the 4-chome lanes; walking the lot is under ten minutes.
| Shop | 2018 | Hours (own site) | Closed | The one-line truth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Azuma Minamotono Masahisa 東源正久 | stayed | 5:30–15:00† | Calendar-driven, no fixed day | Where the tuna knife was invented — blades over 135 cm; earliest opener; also at Toyosu (to 12:00) |
| Tsukiji Aritsugu 築地有次 | stayed | 6:00–15:00† | Sun, holidays, some Wed | 1918, not 1560; free hand engraving; same-day sharpening before noon; Toyosu branch too |
| Tsukiji Masamoto 築地正本 | stayed | 6:00–15:00 | Sun, holidays, market days | Tsukiji since 1931; stayed AND its in-market branch moved to Toyosu; free engraving + free final edge |
| Sugimoto Hamono 杉本刃物 | stayed | 7:00–16:00† | Sun, holidays + market days | The house with a full English site, FAQ and repair terms — and a published UK shipping ban |
| Nenohi 築地子の日 | stayed | 8:15–15:30 | None (exc. New Year) | The Sunday answer — no fixed closing day; top of the price ladder, ¥44,000–¥181,500 |
| Tojiro Knife Gallery 藤次郎 | new | 8:00–15:00 | Wed and Sun, Obon | Opened 15 December 2025 — a Niigata maker's new shop, ~16.5 m², 200+ knives, built for first-timers |
| Tsukiji Hitachiya つきじ常陸屋 | stayed | 8:00–13:00† | Opens Sun/hol from 10:00 | Kitchenware without the edge — steamers, tubs, hand-hammered woks; the other Sunday option |
† The official pages disagree with each other, which is why we quote the shops. The council's Japanese page for Aritsugu says 6:00–15:00 closed on market days only; its English page says 5:30–15:00 closed Sundays — each half-right against the shop's own site. Sugimoto's own two sites split too: the Japanese page defers closing days to the market calendar, the English page hard-codes Wednesdays. Hitachiya's close is 13:00 on the council's Japanese page and 15:00 on its English one. Masahisa's own site says 15:00 against the council's 15:30, and it is the only one publishing a live monthly closing calendar — trust that. For any specific date, check the shop's own monthly notice: Sugimoto's August 2026 notice adds a 14–16 August Obon closure that appears on no market calendar.
One footnote for completists: there is a second Aritsugu — Aritsugu Hocho-ten, a small corner shop at 4-9-16 selling Sakai-made knives, listed on the council's shopping site but absent from its main directory, with no website of its own. Its current trading status is unverified; phone before making a trip of it. And if you find every shop shuttered (a Sunday, a holiday Wednesday), the fallbacks are Nenohi, Hitachiya — or Kappabashi in Asakusa, which keeps ordinary retail hours. Several market walks include the knife lanes →
Buying takes twenty minutes. The services around buying run on hard cut-offs, and they are the schedule-sensitive part of the whole errand:
Engraving is the service worth planning around: free at Masamoto, Aritsugu and Sugimoto, struck by hand — Sugimoto takes up to 5 characters in kanji or kana by chisel, or 10 in capital letters by stamp; Masamoto will even do it free if you come back later. The one paid case is laser engraving on a Western blade body at Aritsugu, from ¥500. Masamoto also puts the honbazuke final hand edge on free at purchase — its FAQ notes mail-order knives often ship without one. No shop publishes an engraving wait time, so allow for it being done while you shop. And be certain first: all three refuse returns or cancellation once a knife is engraved.
The realistic half-morning: shops at 09:00, drop a knife for sharpening by 11:00, eat in the food lanes, collect at 13:00, done. Sundays invert everything — only Nenohi and Hitachiya open, so the whole day's knife trade lands on two counters.
Carbon vs stainless, from a Tsukiji maker rather than a forum. Sugimoto's own English column (September 2024) dismantles the usual line: “It is often said that carbon steel makes knives sharper, while stainless steel does not… this is not entirely true… High-quality stainless steel knives are just as good as carbon steel knives. In fact, a stainless steel knife might even have a better edge… Stainless steel knives also have a significant advantage: they resist rust and are easier to maintain.” Carbon rusts if it stays wet for minutes — Masamoto's care note says hand-wash and dry immediately, no dishwasher, no frozen food, no bones. If you will not wipe a blade dry within a minute of use, stainless is the honest buy, and the shops themselves say so.
The price ladder, with one detail no guide prints: the shops do not display prices on the same tax basis. All figures read from the shops' own sites, 2 August 2026:
| Shop | Range (typical) | Shelf price shown | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tojiro Gallery | ¥6,600 (BASIC santoku) – ¥22,000 (Damascus); sets ¥11,000–¥24,000 | Tax included | First good knife; stainless-heavy; free laser engraving for buyers |
| Tsukiji Masamoto | ¥16,500 (deba) – ¥28,600; santoku ¥23,100 | Tax included | The fitted hand-forged knife; left-handed range listed separately |
| Sugimoto | from ~¥15,000 in hand (gyuto); Chinese cleavers ¥39,091–¥79,000 before tax | Tax excluded — add 10% | Chinese cleavers; buyers who want everything explained in English |
| Tsukiji Aritsugu | ¥22,000–¥25,000 (A-series rust-resistant) | Tax excluded | The compromise steel — carbon sharpness, rust resistance; nukigata vegetable stamps as the flat-packing gift |
| Nenohi | ¥44,000 (Sho petty) – ¥181,500 (honyaki yanagiba) | Tax included | The top end — and open seven days |
Specialities worth crossing the lanes for: Masahisa is, by the council's own description, the shop where the maguro-bocho tuna knife was invented — it developed the blade over 135 cm long, and full-size examples hang in the shop. Aritsugu's wall of nukigata — stamped vegetable cutters in zodiac and blossom shapes — costs a fraction of a knife and packs flat.
Two manners that matter here more than anywhere: don't haggle — the market's official code says plainly that goods are at wholesale prices and price negotiation is not a Tsukiji custom; on a ¥55,000 hand-forged blade it reads as an insult. And don't touch — blades sit on open display, edge-out; ask, and staff will hand you the knife. What you can ask for — free engraving, the final edge, sharpening advice — is worth more than the discount you won't get. Payment: the council publishes card acceptance for Sugimoto, Nenohi, Masahisa and Hitachiya; Aritsugu, Masamoto and Tojiro publish nothing, so carry cash for those three and confirm before the engraving starts.
From 1 November 2026, tax-free shopping in Japan is a refund, not a discount at the till. The National Tax Agency's leaflet puts the new rule in one line: tax-free shops “will sell tax-free goods to foreign tourists, etc. … at a price that includes consumption tax”. You get the 10% back only after customs has confirmed, as you leave Japan, that the goods are going with you. There was no transition period: the agency states there is no time when “the current system and the refund system can be effective together”. Purchases up to 31 October 2026 fell under the old at-the-till rules; anything bought from 1 November 2026 follows the steps below.
The refund, step by step. (1) In the shop, show your passport and pay the full, tax-inclusive price; the purchase must reach “5,000 yen or more (tax excluded) per store per day”, in the Japan Tourism Agency's words. (2) At your departure airport or seaport, present your passport at a tax-free procedure terminal before you check in any bags. A green result means customs needs nothing more; otherwise take the goods to the customs inspection area. You have 90 days from the date of purchase, counted from the next day: the agency's own example is that goods bought on 1 November must be confirmed by 30 January. (3) The shop, or a refund service it has appointed, then pays the tax back. How is up to the shop; the leaflet names bank transfer, credit card, app transfer and cash at the port of departure as possible methods.
Three details catch people out. First, carry everything on the receipt: the tourism agency warns that if one item from a receipt is missing at customs, none of the tax-free goods on that receipt can be confirmed. Second, food, drink and cosmetics used up in Japan are not eligible. Third, the old fine print is gone: the split between general goods and consumables, the ¥500,000 cap on consumables and the sealed bags were all abolished with the switch, so a knife and a bag of katsuobushi from the same shop now count towards one ¥5,000 total.
It stayed. The National Tax Agency's leaflet keeps the ¥5,000 minimum, now counted on the price excluding consumption tax and without product categories. You still need ¥5,000 before tax in one shop in one day.
Gone since 31 March 2025. The separate-shipment route for tax-free goods (別送) was abolished then, so tax-free goods leave in your own baggage. Shipping straight from the shop is a different route: Aritsugu, Masamoto and Sugimoto all ship overseas, and when you sign the shipping contract in the shop and the goods go to the carrier there, the tax agency treats the sale as an export rather than a tax-free sale. Ask the shop how it prices a shipped knife.
Which knife shops handle tax-free sales: in August 2026 the council's directory flagged Sugimoto, Nenohi, Masahisa and Hitachiya, and Tojiro's opening announcement stated tax-free handling; ask at the counter whether the shop runs the refund system before you pay. Aritsugu works through the market's shared Smart Refund counter at Plat Tsukiji (4-16-2), open 10:00–15:00: buy at the member shop, then bring your passport, the receipt and the goods to the counter on the day of purchase. The tax comes back after you complete the procedure at the airport on departure, less the counter's handling fee. Buy at 07:00 and you must come back after 10:00. Masamoto publishes no tax-free status at all, so ask before you buy; at these shops' price levels the tax is a ¥2,000–¥5,000 difference.
Two rules collide at the airport, and the collision is the single most important logistical fact on this page.
So the sequence, spelled out: arrive early → go to a tax-free procedure terminal first, with the knife still in your hand luggage or easy to reach in your case → scan your passport; a green result means you are done, otherwise take the goods to the customs inspection area → then queue for the airline counter and check the bag → then security. At some airports part of the procedure can be done in advance in Visit Japan Web, which has to be set up before you reach customs. Every refund claimant now passes through this step, so allow extra time.
Before the airport, the hotel leg: Japanese law bans carrying a blade over 6 cm in public without justifiable reason (up to 2 years or ¥300,000), and the Tokyo police name your exact case as the worked example of a justifiable reason — buying a blade at a shop and taking it home. Keep it boxed as the shop packed it, keep the receipt, go straight back. The police examples say “home”, not “hotel”, and no English guidance exists — so don't stretch it with detours.
If you'd rather not carry it at all: the shops ship. Masamoto sends overseas by EMS in about a week; Sugimoto ships worldwide from ¥2,600–¥5,200 by zone — with two published destination warnings: it cannot ship to the United Kingdom at all (UK bladed-item import rules; orders placed anyway are cancelled), and its customs notice warns US buyers that shipments “may be subject to significantly higher customs duties than in the past”, payable by you. A UK visitor's only route home is the checked bag.
The other half of a Tsukiji shopping bag is the kanbutsu trade — katsuobushi, kombu, nori, tea, pickles. It is a morning trade (several houses shut by noon), it is wholesale-minded, and it is where the worst travel-facts circulate. One thing first: packaging decides nothing at your home border. Japan dropped its sealed tax-free bags on 1 November 2026, and they never had any biosecurity meaning; admissibility turns on what the product is, not what wrapped it.
False in the present tense — and it never applied to your luggage. On 10 July 2015 the EU wrote katsuobushi into its regulation by name with its own higher smoke-compound limits, and today's rules still list “Katsuobushi (dried bonito)” with dedicated thresholds. Those limits bind food placed on the market — commercial sellers. There is no PAH test at any EU border for passengers, and there never was. Bring the flakes.
Pickles are the real Australia trap. Raw rice into Australia is a clean prohibition and people obey it. Tsukemono is conditionally allowed in a way the classic format fails: it must be shelf-stable for six months in an approved sealed container — metal can, twist-off jar, retort pouch. The chilled vacuum pouch marked 要冷蔵 fails; a shelf-stable glass jar of umeboshi generally passes. Also read dashi-pack labels: pork or beef extract trips the absolute EU, GB and Australian meat bans.
Buying katsuobushi without embarrassment: the 6-chome bonito wholesalers are professionals' shops, and it shows. Fushitaka — 95 per cent trade customers, a shop of about 23 m² — states on its own site that it will not weigh out less than 500 g, and that a hurried professional gets served before you, mid-transaction. Asking for 100 g there isn't rude, but be ready for the no. The tourist-sized counter is Obayashi Shoten (6-26-8, 4:00–14:00), which sells everything by weight from 50 g — the smallest documented minimum in the category. The honest souvenir remains the sealed 70 g bag of hana-kezuri flakes at around ¥900: it fits in luggage, doesn't oxidise while sealed, and actually gets used, unlike the beautiful whole block that needs a shaving box and, by the seller's own admission, about a month of practice.
Fushitaka also runs the category's best experience: a free katsuobushi-shaving class, one group of up to two people at 13:00 on trading days — booked by telephone only (03-3541-0918, call 6:30–14:00; email is expressly not accepted). Its suspension notices — 1 December–5 January and 1 August–10 September — live in the page's hidden code and don't reliably show on screen, so the website cannot tell you whether the class is running. Phone. The class page and line are Japanese-only. Timing for the whole dried-goods errand mirrors the knives: weekday 09:00–11:00, because by 13:00 a third of these shops are shuttered — details on the calendar page.
No — every one is in the outer market, which never moved. Aritsugu, Masamoto and Masahisa also run second branches inside Toyosu Market on earlier hours, and Tojiro's gallery opened new in Tsukiji in December 2025 — the knife trade here is growing, not winding down.
That's Kyoto's Aritsugu — a separate company in Nishiki Market. Tsukiji Aritsugu's own pages give 1918 (Nihonbashi), 1923 (Tsukiji), 1952 (incorporation). The 1560 line under a Tsukiji heading is the most-syndicated error on this topic.
Nenohi — no fixed closing day, 8:15–15:30 — and Hitachiya from 10:00. The other four knife houses close Sundays, and most Wednesdays too; check the calendars before you set out.
¥6,600 buys a genuinely good stainless santoku at Tojiro; ¥13,000–¥29,000 covers the professional and old-house middle; Nenohi runs ¥44,000–¥181,500. Watch the tax basis: Sugimoto and Aritsugu shelf prices exclude the 10%, Tojiro, Masamoto and Nenohi include it.
Sharpening: Aritsugu before 12:00 (max two knives, ~1 hour), Sugimoto drop-offs 07:00–14:00. Engraving: free at Masamoto, Aritsugu and Sugimoto — and irreversible; no returns once a knife carries your name.
As a refund. You pay the full price in the shop, get customs confirmation at departure within 90 days of purchase (before you check in your bags), and the shop or its refund service pays the tax back afterwards. The ¥5,000 minimum, before tax, per shop per day, stays; carry every item on the receipt, or nothing on it is confirmed. Details in chapter 05.
Checking the bag first. The knife must fly checked, but the tax-free procedure has to be done before the airline has the bag. Tax-free terminal → customs if asked → check-in → security, in that order — full sequence in chapter 06.
Yes in practice: the Tokyo police cite “bought a blade at a shop, taking it home” as the model justifiable reason under the 6 cm carry law. Keep it boxed, keep the receipt, go straight back — no detours, no unwrapping.
Katsuobushi travels well and the EU “ban” is a dead myth — the regulation names katsuobushi with its own limits and binds sellers, not suitcases. Pickles are the trap: Australia demands six-month shelf-stability in approved sealed containers, which the chilled vacuum pouch fails. A shelf-stable jar of umeboshi generally passes.