Which building at Toyosu has the tuna auction?

Block 7, the Fish Wholesale Market Building - not the Intermediate Wholesale Building, which several well-known guides wrongly name. The free 2nd-floor visitor walkway above the auction floor opens at 5:00 a.m., and the lottery muster point is also in Block 7, at the PR Corner in the Management Facilities Building.

Where exactly is Daiwa Sushi at Toyosu?

Block 5, the Fruit and Vegetable Building, 1st floor - the produce block, a genuinely long walk from Sushi Dai. Almost every guide implies the two famous counters sit side by side; they are in different buildings. Daiwa opens 5:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., and its queue is usually shorter because most visitors never look for it in the produce building.

Can I buy fresh fish at Toyosu Market?

No. Tokyo's market bureau states the intermediate wholesale floor sells only to volume trade buyers - supermarkets, fishmongers, restaurants - and general consumers cannot purchase there. Uogashi Yokocho, the roughly 70-shop retail street on the 4th floor of Block 6, sells dry goods, knives and kitchenware but no fresh seafood. To buy fish, go to Tsukiji outer market or Senkyaku Banrai next door.

Is the Toyosu rooftop garden open 24 hours?

No - 5:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. The likely source of the 24-hour myth is that the rooftop green plaza is the one part of the complex that stays open on days the market itself is closed. 'Open on closed days' has been misread as 'open around the clock'.

What days is Toyosu Market closed in 2026?

The seafood side closes 114 days in 2026 (251 open): Sundays, national holidays and most - not all - Wednesdays, plus New Year and Obon shutdowns. Seven of the year's 52 Wednesdays trade normally. The produce side runs its own calendar with 118 closed days, including four dates (14 October, 4 November, 25 November, 30 December) when produce closes but seafood trades. Check the official Tokyo calendar for the exact date before setting an alarm.

Are there lockers or stroller storage at Toyosu?

No coin lockers anywhere inside the market and no stroller or buggy storage - both operating co-operatives state this in writing, and large luggage and carts may not be taken into shops or restaurants. Coin lockers exist at Shijo-mae Station only. This is the opposite of Tsukiji, where the Plat Tsukiji information centre has lockers including suitcase-size.

Can I eat while walking around Toyosu like at Tsukiji?

No. Eating and drinking on the visitor walkways is prohibited, and the official wording specifically includes the benches. Uogashi Yokocho bans eating in its area too. Food is eaten in restaurants only - street-food grazing is a Tsukiji or Senkyaku Banrai activity.

How does the Sushi Dai queue work?

It is a same-day timed-slot system, not a normal queue. From about 5:00 a.m. the shop issues return times at the storefront in Block 6: the whole party turns up, states its size, receives a slot and leaves. Arriving 6:30 a.m. has recently meant a return slot around two hours later. No online, phone or tour booking. Cash only; recent diner reports put the omakase around 5,000 to 5,500 yen as of mid-2026.

Is an afternoon visit to Toyosu worth it?

Mostly no. The walkways stay open to 5:00 p.m., but the restaurant co-operative states plainly that after about 2 p.m. almost everything is closed, and the Uogashi Yokocho shops wind down around midday. An afternoon visit gets you empty corridors and the rooftop. Come 5:00-9:00 a.m. for the auction morning or 9:30-12:30 for the civilised version.

Can I watch the produce auction at Toyosu?

Yes, and almost nobody does. Block 5, the Fruit and Vegetable Building, has a dedicated visitors' deck overlooking the rapid produce auction, which starts around 6:30 a.m. - a real auction with no lottery, no booking, no queue and almost no tourists, because virtually every English guide ignores it.

The working market · Toyosu 豊洲市場 · verified 2 August 2026

Toyosu Market: the working half of the story, building by building.

When the fish trade left Tsukiji in October 2018, it came here — three enormous, climate-controlled blocks in Koto-ku where around 900 businesses now do the actual work. Most guides describe Toyosu as one vague place. It is three distinct buildings on two different calendars, and knowing which block holds what is the difference between a perfect morning and queueing an hour outside the wrong building in the dark.

Verified 2 Aug 2026 · hours and calendars from Tokyo's market bureau and the operators' own co-ops · we earn a commission on tour bookings — how we pick them

¥0

Admission

Visitor blocks

251

Open days 2026

Restaurants

~70

Yokocho shops

3km+

Full circuit

TL;DR

Learn the blocks before you go. Block 7 = the tuna auction and its free walkway. Block 6 = most restaurants (Sushi Dai), the ~70-shop Uogashi Yokocho and the rooftop lawn. Block 5 = the produce building — with its own no-lottery auction deck and Daiwa Sushi, which is not next to Sushi Dai. One deck-level entrance per block; the walk between them is long.
The calendar is the trap. Seafood side closed 114 days in 2026 (Sundays, holidays, most Wednesdays); produce runs its own 118-day calendar. Check the date, then set the alarm — details in chapter 03.
The clock matters more than the hours. Doors 05:00, walkways to 17:00 — but the co-op itself says almost everything is shut by about 14:00, and Yokocho shops close around midday. Toyosu is a morning.
Bring cash, not luggage. No lockers, no stroller storage, no fish for sale, no eating on the walkways. What you get instead: the real auction, the legendary counters, and it's all indoors — chapter 05 is the honest expectation-setter.

The three buildings, and what actually lives in each

Everything a visitor can do at Toyosu happens in three blocks joined by an elevated pedestrian deck from Shijō-mae Station — you never touch street level. Each block has exactly one visitor entrance from the deck, and the restaurant co-op explicitly tells visitors to decide which block they want before arriving. Here is the map in words.

Block 7 · Fish Wholesale 水産卸売場棟

The auction building

The tuna auction floor, viewed from the free 2F walkway (05:00, uncapped, glass-side) or the lottery deck. Also the PR Corner muster point, the giant-bluefin sculpture at the entrance — the market's signature photo — and 13 restaurants on 3F. Full auction mechanics → tuna auction page.

Block 7 detail

05:00

walkway opens; auction runs ~05:30–06:30 — how to see it

Block 6 · Fish Intermediate Wholesale 水産仲卸売場棟

The eating-and-shopping building

The visitor centre of gravity: 22 restaurants on 3F including Sushi Dai and the two 04:00 cafés, the ~70-shop Uogashi Yokocho on 4F (knives, katsuobushi, wasabi, kitchenware — no fresh fish), two display turret trucks, and the lift to the rooftop lawn. The wholesale floor below is trade-only.

Rooftop, Block 6

05:00–23:00

not 24h — but open even on market closed days; Tokyo Bay, Rainbow Bridge, winter Fuji

Block 5 · Fruit & Vegetable 青果棟

The produce building — the one everyone skips, wrongly

Two reasons to come. First: a dedicated visitors' deck over the rapid produce auction from ~06:30 — a real auction with no lottery, no booking and almost no tourists. Second: Daiwa Sushi is here, on 1F of this building — not beside Sushi Dai in Block 6, whatever the co-location myth says. Three restaurants total, and the shortest queues in the market.

Block 5 detail

06:30

produce auction starts; walk-in visitors' deck, zero queue — the market's most underrated hour

Scale check before you plan a “quick look”: walking every visitor corridor across the three blocks exceeds 3 km, indoors, on long straight decks with benches you may not eat on. Between-block walks are genuinely long — if your target is Daiwa at 06:00, enter at Block 5, not wherever the crowd is going.

Not a fourth building: Senkyaku Banrai. The Edo-styled complex you'll see next door (6-5-1 Toyosu) is a separate private facility with its own owner, address and — crucially — its own calendar: open every day of the year, shops 10:00–18:00, restaurants 10:00–22:00, plus the 24-hour Manyo Club onsen. On a Sunday or a closed Wednesday, the market is sealed and Senkyaku Banrai is trading normally. Full write-up: Senkyaku Banrai.

Camera targets, block by block

The market plants one signature photo subject per building, and knowing them saves backtracking. Block 7: the sculpture of the largest bluefin ever landed at Tsukiji, right inside the Fish Wholesale Building entrance — the market's signature shot — and the green-floored auction hall below the walkway (lit for work, not cameras: expect ISO 3200+ through glass at 05:30). Block 6: two real turret trucks on display — over 1,000 operate inside the market — plus a life-size bluefin panel to stand beside for scale. Block 5: the full-size treasure-ship model used in the first-market ceremony. The rooftop is the only good natural-light location: Tokyo Bay, Rainbow Bridge, Tokyo Tower and, on clear winter mornings, Mt Fuji — best just after sunrise. Shoot through glass with a hand cupped against it to kill reflections; flash is banned on the auction deck.

The calendar: two departments, two truths

Toyosu's calendar is set by the trade, not by tourism, and the classic Toyosu mistake is a 04:30 alarm on a closed day — when the market is shut, everything inside is shut: walkways, restaurants, shops. (The single exception is the rooftop plaza, 05:00–23:00 even on closed days.) The seafood and produce departments do not even share a calendar:

2026 calendar	Closed / open	The fine print
Seafood 水産	114 closed · 251 open	51 Sundays, 45 Wednesdays, 7 Mondays, 4 Tuesdays, 3 Fridays, 2 Thursdays, 2 Saturdays
Produce 青果	118 closed · 247 open	Four produce-only closures: 14 Oct, 4 Nov, 25 Nov, 30 Dec — seafood trades normally those days

Not every Wednesday is closed. Seven of 2026's 52 Wednesdays trade on the seafood side. “Closed Wednesdays” as a flat rule will cost you a morning — or waste one.
The produce-only dates matter if Daiwa is your target: on those four days the fish side trades but Block 5 — Daiwa's building — is dark.
Year-end runs opposite to intuition: the seafood side trades right through 24–30 December, its busiest buying week, then closes 1–4 January before the ceremonial first auction on 5 January.
Obon worked example (August 2026): closed 2, 5, 9, 11, 14–16, 19, 23, 26, 30 August — the Obon shutdown 14–16 plus Mountain Day on the 11th — leaving 20 opening days.
Source to check, by name: the official calendar at shijou.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/calendar/2026 publishes downloadable per-commodity files — seafood and produce are separate. Our combined view of all five Tsukiji–Toyosu calendars lives on hours & calendars.

The shop-level caveat beats the headline hours. Walkways run 05:00–17:00, but the restaurant co-op states plainly that in-market restaurants trade “from early morning until about 2 p.m.” and that after 2 p.m. almost everything is closed; Uogashi Yokocho's shops mostly shut around midday. Plan Toyosu as a morning, full stop.

If our figures disagree with pages you've read, here's why: Tokyo's own tourism site still carries “5 a.m. until 3 p.m.” on its Toyosu district page — the 2022 post-COVID reopening hour, two hours short of the market bureau's current 17:00 — and the widely-copied “closed 116 days annually” is a rounded average being recycled as fact against the official year-specific 114/118. We cite the operating bureau's calendar files, dated.

Which day, which hour

Best days: any opening Tuesday, Thursday or Friday. Avoid Saturdays — the market's own busiest visitor day, the PR Corner shuts at 11:30, and several restaurants run different Saturday hours. Mondays after a Sunday closure carry heavy trade volume and congestion.
Crowd shape by hour: 05:20–06:30 the walkway above the tuna floor is the one genuine crush of the day, shoulder to shoulder along the glass. 06:30–09:00 the pressure moves to the restaurant floors. 09:30–12:00 is comfortably moderate everywhere. After 14:00 the corridors are near-deserted — atmospheric, with nothing left open.
Genuinely quiet at any hour: the Block 5 produce deck, and the rooftop after 08:00.
Late December is the market's own peak (24–30 December, maximum trade and congestion) — and note the visitor-restraint advisory that the Tsukiji outer-market association issued in December 2025 applied to Tsukiji; Toyosu's neighbour Senkyaku Banrai publicly said the opposite, welcoming year-end visitors.

Restaurants & queues, mechanically

Thirty-eight restaurants are listed across the three blocks by the operators' own co-operative (which itself headlines 39 — the discrepancy is theirs): 22 in Block 6, 13 in Block 7, 3 in Block 5. The two legends work on completely different systems:

Sushi Dai 寿司大 — Block 6, 3F. Not a queue: a same-day slot desk. From about 05:00 the storefront issues timed return slots — whole party present, state your size, take a return time, leave. A 06:30 Friday arrival recently produced an 08:40 slot; the gap is what the rooftop and the auction walkway are for. Doors open around 05:30 (the co-op's figure; Tabelog says 06:00) and it runs to 14:00. Cash only — its official listing rules out cards, e-money and QR alike. Recent diner reports put the omakase at ~¥5,000–5,500 as of mid-2026; the ¥4,500 you'll read elsewhere is a pre-2025 figure. No online, phone or tour booking exists — full strategy on the sushi breakfast page.
Daiwa Sushi 大和寿司 — Block 5, Fruit & Vegetable Building, 1F. The co-location myth sends almost everyone to the wrong block, which is exactly why Daiwa's line is consistently shorter. 05:30–13:00. One genuinely useful 2026 wrinkle: Daiwa has quietly started taking online bookings via TableCheck for a limited set of weekdays — something its own co-op page doesn't mention — making it the only legendary counter you can sometimes book from your sofa.
The 04:00 openers: two coffee-and-light-meal counters in Block 6 — Iwata 岩田 and Senriken センリ軒 — open at 04:00 and are the sanctioned way to spend the pre-auction hour. Almost no English guide mentions them.
Beyond sushi: Odayasu (tonkatsu and fried fish), Nakaei (Indian curry, a Tsukiji survivor since the 1950s), Yoshinoya's beef bowl under ¥1,000, soba, Chinese, tempura, eel — a better non-raw spread than most markets, and the practical answer for children.
Arrived after 14:00 anyway? The survivors number roughly four: Yamahara's kaisendon in Block 6 to about 16:00, the two Tsukiji Kagura Sushi branches in Block 7 (08:00–16:00), Ikinoya and Ooedo in Block 6 with last orders 15:30, and Mosuke Dango in Block 7 to 15:00. Everything else is shuttered.

04:00Iwata and Senriken open (Block 6) — coffee at wholesale-worker prices.
05:00Doors and walkways open; Sushi Dai's slot desk starts issuing return times.
05:30Sushi Dai and Daiwa open their counters; the tuna auction bells ring in Block 7.
06:30Produce auction begins on Block 5's walk-in deck; restaurant queues build toward the 07:00–09:00 peak.
09:30The sweet spot — often walk-in seating everywhere until about 11:30.
12:00Uogashi Yokocho shops begin shutting; Daiwa closes at 13:00.
14:00The wall: the co-op's own “almost everything closed” line. Walkways stay open, pointlessly, to 17:00.

Two etiquette rules the co-op asks of visitors, worth knowing before you sit: most counters require one full set per person (no sharing one bowl among three), and you're asked to leave promptly after eating — seats are the market's scarcest resource. All shops sell at fixed list prices; don't bargain.

The cash maths: for a facility built in 2018, Toyosu is startlingly cash-forward — budget ¥10,000–15,000 per person in physical yen for a sushi breakfast plus Yokocho shopping, drawn at a convenience store before you board the Yurikamome. Transport itself takes Suica/PASMO normally, and Senkyaku Banrai next door is far more card-friendly.

Hours and prices above verified 2 August 2026 against the restaurant co-op's and Uogashi Yokocho's own listings — per-shop hours drift; the shop front is the truth.

What Toyosu is not (read before packing)

Toyosu was built as a closed cold-chain facility, not an attraction, and its facility list reads like the photographic negative of Tsukiji's. The honest inventory:

Expectation	Toyosu reality	Where to go instead
Coin lockers	None anywhere in the market — both operating co-ops state it; lockers at Shijō-mae Station only, no cloakroom	Station lockers; at Tsukiji, Plat Tsukiji has suitcase-size — see practical
Stroller parking	None — and no buggies, large luggage or carts inside shops and restaurants; fold and carry	Senkyaku Banrai next door has the family facilities: nursing room, changing tables, wheelchair loan
Buying fresh fish	Impossible — the wholesale floor is trade-only by official rule, and Uogashi Yokocho stocks no fresh seafood	Tsukiji outer market or Senkyaku Banrai
Snacking as you stroll	Prohibited on walkways including the benches; Yokocho bans it separately — food is eaten seated, in restaurants	Grazing is Tsukiji's whole genre — what to eat
A place to sit	Benches exist but you can't eat on them; over 3 km of corridor with few rest points before a restaurant floor or the rooftop lawn	Restaurant seat, rooftop grass (slippery when dewy — the association's own warning)
Cards accepted	Cash-forward to a surprising degree: Sushi Dai takes no cards, e-money or QR; most Yokocho shops are cash; assume no reliable visitor ATM inside	Draw ¥10,000–15,000 per person at a convenience store before boarding the Yurikamome

And the trade running the other way — what Toyosu has that Tsukiji never will: it is fully indoor and climate-controlled. Rain, August heat and February wind are non-issues on every walkway, restaurant floor and shopping corridor. The route from the station is step-free and level, with lifts throughout, including up to the rooftop plaza — markedly more accessible than Tsukiji's crowded open lanes. The real physical demand here is distance, not weather or steps. Rainy days are Toyosu days; details on practical & accessibility.

Rules you could break without knowing

Stay on the visitor decks. One designated entrance per block; the wholesale floors are permanently off-limits, and rope lines and “staff only” signs mean it — sightseeing entry to the trading floor is refused outright.
Watch for turret trucks. They cross the retail corridors, both associations warn about them repeatedly, and they are the main injury risk on site. Don't walk several abreast or stand phone-in-hand in front of a shop.
Cameras: don't photograph individual traders or their goods up close without asking; commercial and press filming needs prior application. No flash on the auction deck.
Smoking only in the designated rooms on the restaurant floors; the rest of the market is non-smoking.
No pets in Uogashi Yokocho, and no haggling anywhere — every shop sells at fixed list price by association rule.
Arrive sober for the auction deck: the official viewing terms let reception staff refuse anyone judged intoxicated.

The morning plan: how Toyosu chains into a whole day

Toyosu's neighbourhood is the reason the 04:30 alarm pays off — everything sits minutes apart:

05:00–06:30 — the auction from Block 7's free walkway (mechanics and the lottery; the pre-dawn transport puzzle — short version: first train from Toyosu Station ~05:15, not Shimbashi).
06:30–10:00 — the market itself: produce auction from Block 5's deck, breakfast on a Sushi Dai slot or at Daiwa, Uogashi Yokocho while it's alive, rooftop for the bay view.
10:00 onwards — next door and beyond: the onsen at Senkyaku Banrai is the natural decompression after a 04:30 start (open every day, unlike the market), and teamLab Planets — ten minutes away, opening at 08:00 — is the pairing that makes the early start look efficient rather than masochistic. Or ride back west and land at Tsukiji's outer market just as it hits stride at 09:00 — the two markets in one morning is the standard efficient pairing.

Getting here at a civilised hour is easy — the sharp end is only the pre-dawn arrival, which has its own chapter. The daytime quick reference:

From	Route	Time / cost
Ginza	Yurakucho line to Toyosu, Yurikamome to Shijō-mae — the easiest origin, and why Ginza is the sensible pre-auction hotel district	~15–20 min incl. transfer
Tokyo Station	Marunouchi → Ginza → Yurakucho → Toyosu → Yurikamome	~30 min · ¥370
Tsukiji outer market	Shintomicho (7-min walk) → Toyosu → Yurikamome; or ~10 min by taxi	~20–25 min

Three station facts worth a line each: Shijō-mae is unstaffed, which matters at 05:00 if you have a ticket problem; its pedestrian deck feeds straight into all three blocks without touching street level; and there is no visitor car park and no bicycle parking anywhere at the market — drivers use the Senkyaku Banrai multi-storey next door.

Should you pay someone to run this? The honest split from our tours & classes comparison: DIY is entirely possible — the market is free, signposted and engineered for it — but the floors are almost entirely unexplained in English at the point of viewing, and auction tours exist to solve interpretation and dawn logistics, not access. Two formats fit this page's shape:

Private Toyosu + Tsukiji morning with auction viewing (★ 4.8 · 268 reviews · ~$151) — both markets in one guided sweep. Right for a first Tokyo morning where you want the block-finding, the transfer and the Tsukiji food crawl all handled by one person.
Toyosu auction morning + Sushi Dai or Bentomi breakfast (★ 4.6 · 151 reviews · ~$115) — Toyosu-only, with the storefront-slot breakfast choreographed for you. Right if this building complex is your morning and the sushi counter is the point.

Neither — nor any tour — can sell lottery-deck access; that's an official rule, explained honestly on the auction tours page.

How long, and for whom

Two honest time budgets. The auction-focused morning: out of the hotel by 04:30, on site 05:00, auction to 06:30, sushi 07:00–08:30, rooftop and Yokocho to 10:00 — about five hours, after which you'll want the afternoon free. The civilised food-and-look visit: arrive 09:30–10:00, do all three blocks, eat, browse Yokocho before it shuts, out by 12:30 — 2.5 to 3 hours. Add 45–60 minutes for Senkyaku Banrai. Who each version fits:

Solo first-timer: DIY the auction morning — the market is engineered for exactly this. Two alarms, the 05:15 train, the glass, then Sushi Dai's slot desk.
Family with children under 10: skip the auction entirely. Come at 09:30 for the produce deck, the turret trucks and the rooftop, eat at 11:00, and use Senkyaku Banrai for the facilities the market lacks. Nothing fixes the 04:30 wake-up plus no-stroller-storage combination.
Serious food traveller: take a guided visit once for the interpretation — teyari hand-signal bidding, the tail-cut inspection, what an intermediate wholesaler actually does — then return DIY on a second morning knowing what to look at. Genuinely the best use of money here.
One morning in Tokyo, total: honestly, consider skipping Toyosu. It costs the best five hours of a day and is closed 114 days a year; Tsukiji delivers more sensory payoff per hour with no alarm.
Mobility-limited or older visitors: DIY, mid-morning, using the lifts — Toyosu beats Tsukiji on every access measure; just plan around the 3 km of corridor and the no-eating benches.

Tour data captured 2 Aug 2026 — prices drift; the booking page is the truth.

Three myths this page exists to kill

“Daiwa Sushi is next to Sushi Dai in the fish building”

Different buildings, different blocks. Sushi Dai: Block 6, Fish Intermediate Wholesale, 3F. Daiwa: Block 5, the Fruit & Vegetable Building, 1F — a long walk away, in the produce block. Queue at the wrong building and you lose an hour. Both moved from Tsukiji in 2018; neither is in the outer market.

“The rooftop garden is open 24 hours”

05:00–23:00. The grain of truth that spawned the myth: the rooftop plaza is the one part of the complex open on days the market is closed. “Open on closed days” got misread as “open around the clock”.

“Toyosu is just a sterile mall — skip it”

It's the opposite of a mall: a mall sells you things; Toyosu won't even sell you a fish. This is the real working wholesale market — ~900 relocated businesses, over 1,000 turret trucks, the world's most famous auction — observed from glass walkways. Less immersive than old Tsukiji, yes. Sterile, no: you're watching the actual engine of Tokyo's fish trade, free, with the floor's own audio piped in at auction hour.

FAQ

Block 7, the Fish Wholesale Market Building — not the Intermediate Wholesale Building, which two widely-read guides wrongly name. Free 2F walkway from 05:00; the lottery muster is also in Block 7. Everything else: the auction page.

Block 5, Fruit & Vegetable Building, 1F — the produce block. That's why its queue is shorter: most visitors never look there. 05:30–13:00, with a limited weekday online-booking option via TableCheck.

No. The wholesale floor sells to volume trade buyers only — official rule — and Uogashi Yokocho's ~70 shops stock dry goods, knives and kitchenware, no fresh seafood. Buy fish at Tsukiji or Senkyaku Banrai.

Sundays, holidays and most — not all — Wednesdays, plus New Year and Obon: 114 days in 2026 on the seafood side, 118 on produce, which runs its own calendar with four produce-only closures. Check the calendar before any alarm-setting.

Everything inside is shut — walkways, restaurants, shops. Only the rooftop plaza (05:00–23:00) opens. The fallback is Senkyaku Banrai next door, open every day of the year.

Neither, anywhere in the market — both co-ops state it in writing, and big bags can't come into shops or restaurants. Lockers at Shijō-mae Station only. Tsukiji's Plat Tsukiji centre, by contrast, stores suitcases — see practical.

No — eating and drinking on the walkways is banned, benches explicitly included, and Uogashi Yokocho bans it separately. You eat seated, in restaurants. The grazing culture lives at Tsukiji.

Yes — and almost nobody does. Block 5's dedicated visitors' deck overlooks the rapid produce auction from ~06:30: a real auction, no lottery, no booking, no crowd. The market's most underrated hour.

Mostly no. Walkways run to 17:00 but the co-op says almost everything closes by about 14:00, and Yokocho winds down at midday. Come 05:00–09:00 for the auction version or 09:30–12:30 for the civilised one.

They answer different questions: Toyosu is the real trade, the auction and the legendary counters, observed from above; Tsukiji is the street life you're in, with no 05:00 alarm. With one full morning, do both — Toyosu at dawn, then Tsukiji from 09:00.

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